Clothing pattern drafting help?

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[Phexxie]
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Clothing pattern drafting help?

Post by [Phexxie] » Tue Mar 15, 2011 12:59 am

im hoping someone can point me in the direction of a source (preferably free and online) or give me tips themselves for drafting your own clothing patterns

im not new to sewing, and i can use pre-made patterns easily, but im really wanting to start drafting patterns of my own because im finding pre-made patterns too limited for the designs i have in mind!

measuring my own clothing may not work for this, as i want to be able to make garments in sizes other than my own (ideally, from a UK 6 right up to an 18 or above)

when i have made things from scratch in the past, i have usually just measured myself and gotten snip-happy with the fabric scissors, banged it through my machine and hoped for the best... and im yet to have any complete and utter disasters to the point where the garment has been unwearable

any advice would be very much appreciated, im hoping to create everything from skirts, dresses, shirts, pants and more, but with my designs and not replicated Simplicity or Burda style patterns

also, if anyone could recommend a good dressform (adjustable, of course) that would be great too :)

any help and advice would be very much appreciated!

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brandalynn
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Re: Clothing pattern drafting help?

Post by brandalynn » Tue Mar 15, 2011 1:27 pm

A bit of good practice would be picking up some cheap clothes from a thrift store and altering them. When you acheive something you like, trace it up to keep as your own pattern. Threadbanger.com has all sorts of projects that can be easily modified.

Threadbanger has this for a dress form and you are not going to get any cheaper than that. http://www.threadbanger.com/episode/THR_20090403
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Re: Clothing pattern drafting help?

Post by guest123 » Tue Mar 15, 2011 2:27 pm

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MrsEss
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Re: Clothing pattern drafting help?

Post by MrsEss » Tue Mar 15, 2011 2:31 pm

I always tweak my patterns, but if you wanna make your own you're probably best off getting (or making) some pattern blocks. You can buy them, but it'll be cheaper to make your own.
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[Phexxie]
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Re: Clothing pattern drafting help?

Post by [Phexxie] » Tue Mar 15, 2011 4:21 pm

thanks for the link Stina, they actually have pattern drafting books on there too :D

a duct-tape/custom dress form isnt going to work for what i need, something thats a size 6 for me is no good for a size 14!
looking through that site and for pattern blocks has led me onto another site that carries deluxe adjustoform mannequins for a lot cheaper than most places, so ive bookmarked and got my eye on those!

i found an online pattern making course... for £900 0_o think ill give that one a miss! seems a little excessive to me really...

im going to keep searching now i have a better idea of what to look for, thanks ladies :)

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LittlePinkFaery
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Re: Clothing pattern drafting help?

Post by LittlePinkFaery » Tue Mar 15, 2011 10:06 pm

I find my tailors dummy totally valuable when dressmaking-I stongly recommend one -I also like to take patterns from clothing with a pin wheel onto paper.

I used to thow clothes together a lot when I was younger and I am just getting back into it :)

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Re: Clothing pattern drafting help?

Post by Nenedhel » Wed Mar 16, 2011 12:36 am

A dress makers dummy helps a lot if you don't have an eye for pattern making. I'm strange and can make a perfect fitting pattern for pretty much anything without previous reference, I don't have any commercial patterns.

Editing pre-made patterns is a good start as you will get used to how everything fits and where seams go etc.

Various pattern books help to, next time I'm up north for a shoot I will drop in some photocopies for you if you like.
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[Phexxie]
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Re: Clothing pattern drafting help?

Post by [Phexxie] » Wed Mar 16, 2011 4:33 pm

Nenedhel wrote:A dress makers dummy helps a lot if you don't have an eye for pattern making. I'm strange and can make a perfect fitting pattern for pretty much anything without previous reference, I don't have any commercial patterns.

Editing pre-made patterns is a good start as you will get used to how everything fits and where seams go etc.

Various pattern books help to, next time I'm up north for a shoot I will drop in some photocopies for you if you like.
aww, that would be lovely :D

im not sure if i have the 'eye' for it or not yet as ive never tried! ive got a few simple dress patterns i could probably add to/take away from quite easily so ill give it a go

ive got my eye on an adjustoform deluxe... looks pretty good :)

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Re: Clothing pattern drafting help?

Post by abby_carnage » Thu Jun 02, 2011 3:42 pm

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Metric-Pattern- ... 109&sr=8-1

This book!! I think it'll suit your needs perfectly. It takes you step by step through the stages of drafting, from blocks to finished patterns and so you can do any size, any style! If i were you, i'd either make to your own size first or use a size chart from a reputable company and draft one size (say a 12) before you start grading. If you haven't graded before, get to grips with your pattern cutting first, then look into grading seperately. I think it can get really complicated with the increments and things!! Good luck, hope this helps!

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Re: Clothing pattern drafting help?

Post by abby_carnage » Thu Jun 02, 2011 3:46 pm

Ps: if the previous book is too complicated, this one is super simple and suitable for the experienced or not!
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Designing-Patte ... =8-1-fkmr0

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Odonata
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Re: Clothing pattern drafting help?

Post by Odonata » Mon Jul 04, 2011 7:25 pm

if you are not new to sewing and understand patterns then it wont be a big step to learn to alter those bought patterns and eventually draft your own - a HUGELY worth wile book to get is Patternmaking for fashion design by Helen Joseph Armstrong Amazon sell it you might also find it on the book depositary (they are sometimes cheaper too). this book will teach you to draft from measurements and how to flat pattern make different details from skirts to sleeves collars cuffs in both men's and women's wear .

i am qualified in fashion design and textiles, also in alterations - i find this book very useful especially in drafting blocks for clients

also good is draping for apparel design by Helen Joseph Armstrong and books by Winifred Aldrich are very good

good luck and enjoy pattern making - you can also look into doing pattern making courses?

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Odonata
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Re: Clothing pattern drafting help?

Post by Odonata » Mon Jul 04, 2011 7:35 pm

as far as dressmakers dummies go there are many - i have a tinna fashion miss dress size 8 (Australian) from which i draft patterns from my collection and then grade into various sizes- if you are hoping to establish a label and sell or make all sizes this is your best option not an ajustable - if you are aiming to do custom works an ajustable is advised

tinnafashion dummise have beautiful natural figures with nicely defined bust and are stunning quality . i recommend a size 8 to start - patterns from this can be graded up and down (earlier recommended books will show you how to do this) from a size 8 you can grade patterns into 6 ,10 ,12
and a second dummy in a size 14 or 12 if you like is better to redraft and then grade sizes 12,14,16,18 as the body shape changes not just enlarges from here -

hope this helped , sorry bout the multipul post

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